2 November 2025

Billy in Dili, a Greek in Timor Leste

Some days on my visit to Dili, Timor Leste’s capital, I felt as though I was home on Lesvos. The people appreciate my visit, there is a beach, fishing, street food and its hot. Growing up in Sydney, we heard about Time Leste via lefties protesting the occupation of “East Timor.” The late INXS frontman Michael Hutchence once said, “East Timor needs all the help they can get. They’ve been overrun by Indonesia.” In Hutchence’s 1986 film Dogs In Space by Richard Lowenstein, an East Timor poster is prominent.

We heard about the cruel killings of journalists such as the Balibo Five and then Richard East. Years later an Australian-led UN force restored order in Dili when Indonesia withdrew. Then Dili disappeared from our news cycle, despite being just an hour plus from Darwin, a city which is home to thousands of Greeks.

Having purchased a ticket to “Greek” Darwin, I soon found myself on a plane from Darwin to East Timor (Timor Leste in Portuguese), where the first people I met at the airport, and subsequently the last people days later, where Kalymnians. In fact, not just any Kalymnians, a grandfather and grandson, with the latter being a recent migrant to Darwin, having recently opened his seventh Diamond Barbers in Australia.

Tragedy

I sit across from a teacher who speaks five languages. Friendly, lovely and engaging, we turn to the topic of history. This was the second time I met Eugénia, it was time to hear about her childhood, the years of unjust occupation.

Eugénia, which means “nobility” in Greek, tells me how that it was not only Indonesia as the illegal occupiers of Timor Leste. There was a brutal Japanese occupation, almost four centuries of Portuguese as well as some Dutch rule of Timor. Greece of course has been occupied at various times.

One of the benefits of befriending a teacher is that it serves as an entry point into local life, and of course history. It has been 23 years since Timor Leste was officially an independent nation after a brief period of UN governance.

The cost of the occupation? 200,000 lives.

Timor Leste suffered enough. Gaza today arguably has a similar story, which explains why the Dili Marathon is dedicated to Palestinians; Timorese stand shoulder to shoulder with civilians who suffer. Palestine posters and graffiti, much like all countries I have been to this decade, adorn walls and some streetscape. The big hearts and empathy of Timor Leste is evident in how they acknowledge the suffering of others.

Speaking Portuguese

Eugénia was just one of many people who made me feel welcome. My broken Portuguese was welcome here, as I practised Brasilian Portuguese phrases to the “amazement” of locals. They would playfully speak to me in Portuguese or one of the local dialects knowing full well I had zero idea of what was being said in any language! Children here receive less schooling hours, with double the class size numbers than say Australia, yet unlike Australia, the average person can speak three to four languages, including English.

I met Jorge Bigode at Hotel Esplanada. I knew I would have an awesome stay, yet he made it greater. The pool became my office as I worked remotely on several projects, the sea front, the bar – ok I don’t drink but hey I am entitled to my six daily coffees on holiday, and the awesome staff…. The latter is what makes me smile. Jorge for example was always delighted to see me happy as we became instant friends.

Jorge who has visited Australia is a problem solver, a bloke who thinks quickly and speaks a range of languages. I appreciated that connection, a new friend in a country I knew little about and the man who farewelled me at the airport. Obrigado!

Countryside exploration

I reached out to Anas of Dili Dirt Bike Tours/Adventures. In what will rank as one of my all-time favourite travel days, Anas, Rafael and Jose led me across mountains and remote villages. I have trekked to 89 nations and over 100 Greek islands, yet this adventure stood out.

The remoteness aligned with nature, markets and all those hard-working people we met. The people sweating it out making rugs, coffee beans, clothes, fresh produce; for just a few bucks. It was like my parents when they, as children with almost no education and each having lost a parent, worked their guts out. Countless people working hard, as my parents did in the mountains of Lesvos. I surveyed the sea from the mountain tops as I do in my native Skoutaros on Lesvos. The Timorese are as we were 70 years ago.

When we pulled up at a picturesque small village in Ermera (sim/yes mera is Greek for day), Anas explained that there is no electricity. We had crossed through nature, a river and farmlands. Anas paused us here for what was meant to be a quick tudo bem.

We stayed.

The family elder wore a Manchester United jersey. Three generations live in a small farmhouse. We traded stories, they fed me a tasty local lunch and coffee. Anas found a guitar, and we all had fun singing. Three younger members of the family took it in turns to sing. Beautiful voices. Beautiful souls. They told me they would love to visit beautiful Australia. Australia would benefit from their beautiful voices.

I was sad to eventually move on, as each person had made me welcome. Whether I was a gringo or Griego was irrelevant, they have the same big hearts that Lesvos islanders have.

Part of me wishes we, the people from Australia, could do more.

We, the nation of Australia, have taken far more gas from the Timor Sea that we should have thanks to strange deals signed by the “liberating” Howard government earlier this century. These deals are controversial as Australia takes more that its fair share. We can do better in the future, a better way of deal-making for the locals that is fair to all parties.

The boys accommodated my every whim. The urge to smoke, and good ciggies were easily found. I wanted to visit a beach, or a waterfall and we of course did. One of our stops was also the location of a speech from Pope John Paul in 1989.

If anyone rents a car/motorbike, I suggest you do it with locals as some roads need repairs from natural damage. Rafael, Jose and Anas led me around every possible tricky road. I wouldn’t have made it without them.

Anas is growing his business with his amigos. He has also worked on local human rights projects since the start of this century.

Dili is one place where there is nothing Greek, yet there was once a Greek Orthodox congregation. I did reach out to Igreja Orthodox, Pater Sabas.

1.4 million people live here, with tens of thousands in the diaspora according to Eugénia. It has a long way to go in terms of development. The nation has tremendous potential based on its geographic position, hard work ethos and mostly untapped resources.

On my last night in Dili, I found the next best thing to Greek food, no, not Italian from Magna Graecia, rather Turkish Café. Ayhan Kirkan came here earlier this century and stayed; he now has a young daughter and a family goat that I played with. The goat was adorable, with the owner confirming it wouldn’t be eaten. It remains a valued family pet.

My visit conjured up memories of Lesvos when I was a child, reminding me that humanity is everywhere. We can do more to connect with our neighbours, neighbours who experienced tragedy, yet despite that, the vibrant Dili will embrace you and make you feel like it’s your home too.