The Crete experience most travelers never get
Source: NEOS KOSMOS
The largest of Greece’s fabulous Islands, Crete is an idyllic world where the mountains meet the sea. Nature surrounds you here, and the adventures you can experience are as endless as the millions of olive trees that decorate the landscape.
From traditional to gourmet gastronomy to unimaginable cultural and historic journeys, there’s no place on Earth as stoically unchanged and dynamic as the island once known as Keftiu. There is something for everyone here at the crossroads of the ancient and tomorrow.
The magnetism of Crete is legendary, and for those seeking to discover their true self, the island can be transformative. Still, very few visitors who come here receive the greatest gifts of Crete. Here are a few suggestions for those looking for an unforgettable, transformative myth all their own.
“In Crete, the stranger is still the unknown god. Before him, all doors and all hearts are opened.” – Nikos Kazantzakis
The adage no longer exists everywhere on this island. The race to expand onward to popular touristic endeavours, the ongoing financial crisis all Greeks face, and the surreal effects of the COVID lockdowns have steamrolled the people here. Even so, the more remote places still echo the soul of Zeus’ birthplace. In the forgotten or lost places, the mystic magnetism of the land the ancients called “Keftiu” will grab you. Here are a few suggestions for the traveller in search of the extraordinary.
Crete minus footprints
When I think of Southern Crete, I think of sparkling coves kissed by the Libyan Sea’s deep aquamarine and the hot Cretan sun rising and setting like the footlights of a tremendous theatrical play. Only some tourists are familiar with the Southern part of the Island. The all-inclusive resorts and almost all larger towns attract the most visitors in the North. However, if you follow where the locals go for their vacations and long weekends, you’ll end up in places like Palaiochora in the far Southwest, superb places one can only reach by boat like Agia Roumeli (by ferry or hiking), and Agia Galini, Kalamaki or Matala on the Gulf of Mesara.
Even less frequently visited are the wild places in the far Southeast of the Island. Around Ierapetra are coves and beaches that footprints have not touched in years. The extreme Eastern part of Crete, or the Lassithi Prefecture, is a wonderland, most of which still waits discovery. Ierapatra is Europe’s Southernmost city, and many sites, attractions and experiences lie in every direction from there. For those searching for authentic Crete or solitude and solace, here is where you always wanted to be.
Getting there
Flights to Heraklion’s Nikos Kazantzakis Airport from scores of international cities through Athens. Ferry Services from Piraeus to Heraklion’s port and flights to more distant Chania are also possible. Some hotels provide connections to the area, as does Villa Atalandia (pictured).
If you rent a car from Heraklion, take the national highway that leads first to Agios Nikolaos (50 minutes) to the East on the famous Mirabello Bay.
Just on the outskirts of Agios Nikolaos, the main road splits, clearly marking the direction to Ierapetra (40+ minutes). Once you arrive in Ierapetra, the signs for nearby destinations will be easy to follow.
Perfect stays
For couples seeking a romantic experience like no other, the seaside Numo Ierapetra Beach Resort is a luxurious adults-only stay, part of Hilton’s Curio Collection: this five-star hotel sports amazing gardens, three fine restaurants, 2 bars and two stunning swimming pools. There’s also an outdoor cinema, tennis courts, spa and fitness facilities, and myriad water sports activities.
To taste what it was like to visit Cretan half a century ago, Koutsounari Traditional Cottages are the perfect getaway on a hillside overlooking the Koutsounari Long Beach. The website of this famous hospitality offering says it all. These wonderfully appointed cottages take you back to “a time when a holiday meant authentic, innocent simplicity.” This place is the perfect base camp for exploring the broader area of Ierapetra and Lassithi.
The farther East you travel from Ierapetra, the more pristine and exciting the landscape and the experiences become. If luxury and absolute serenity are what you seek, then Villa Atalandia overlooking secluded Kalami Beach is paradise on an Island paradise. Property managers and all-inclusive hotel owners say this stunning holiday stay is “in the middle of nowhere.” This is precisely the appeal of this oasis in the Cretan wildplaces. Situated behind private gates, the holiday home has five sumptuous bedrooms, two gourmet kitchens, a staff or additional guest apartment, splendid pools, a covered BBQ, and endless terraces overlooking the sea. This breathtaking villa is located halfway between Kalo Nero and Goudouras, 1.5 kilometres past the exit of Perivolakia Gorge.
Where to dine
By far, the best dining experience in this region is an Ierapetra harbour restaurant Vira Potzi (Βίρα Πότζι). The traditional and creative Mediterranean fare here is flawless. For the money, this may be the best dining experience in Crete. It’s that good.
Farther East at the end of Koutsounari Long Beach, Pelagos Sea Side Restaurant is another dining experience a cut above. Try the grilled Pargus Fish fillet with fresh horta (local wild greens). The restaurant is right on the beautiful beach, so you can make a swimming, tanning, and dining day trip out of your visit.
At Makry Gailos, the beach bar-restaurant Coukos Island is one of the highest-rated restaurants/tavernas in the area. The view of the Libyan Sea here is fantastic, and you can enjoy all the pleasures of the beach and excellent cuisine, too.
In remote Goudouras Village, Seretis is a traditional kafeneio with outstanding local fare, and a ton of soul most Cretan eateries have long since forgotten. Expect the complete Filoxenia treatment here, but relax—this is the least pretentious dining spot you’ll find.
What to see
Ierapetra is an ancient city dating past the 3rd millennium B.C. While little remains in the town proper from pre-history, the area around Ierapetra is dotted with ancient Paleolithic and early Minoan archaeological sites.
Today, the city of about 30,000 perfectly mixes the cosmopolitan and traditional Cretan atmospheres. Some top attractions here are the medieval fortress “Kales”, which was supposedly built by the Venetian Genoese pirate, Pescadone; Napoleon Bonaparte’s house; beautiful Afentis Christos Church; and various buildings and structures from the Ottoman period of occupation. The Archaeological Collection of Ierapetra, housed in the building of an Ottoman School, is also a must-see.
Outside the city, wonderful little seaside towns retain the flavour of 1950s or 1960s Crete. To the West, quaint Mirtos have seafront tavernas and colourful boutique accommodations. Just to the East, Koutsounari and the long beach of the same name are amazing for first-time Crete visitors.
For the outdoors visitor, just North of the beaches, you can trek Mylonas Gorge and shower beneath its stunning waterfall. Driving even farther East past countless breathtaking beaches, you’ll arrive at the harbor of Makry Gialos with its long sandy beach, its beautiful tavernas, and ancient ruins from Minoan times.
Still farther into what will begin to seem like the middle of nowhere, you’ll arrive at Cape Gouduoras and the farming village at the foot of the cliffs. Ask any Cretan who knows this area, and they’ll quickly tell you this is the best place to rest and relax on Crete.
With 36 beaches and other unique treasures, Koufonisi Island is a “bucket list” day trip to a cultural and natural wonder. Known from the Age of Iron as the Island of Leuke, now Koufonísi’s pristine beaches and a few archaeological sites from antiquity make a trip there a must for the adventuresome. Here, the Minoans (Keftiu) produced the priceless Thyrin Purple dies, for which kings and pharaohs of empires paid great riches. The island also has several archaeological discoveries, including the site of a magnificent temple, a theatre, and an auditorium capable of seating 1,000 people. Be sure to tread lightly at Koufonisi as it is a Natura 2000-protected place.
Another nature lover’s must is the wild and imposing Perivolakia Gorge just East of Makrygialos. The trek down this beautiful natural wonder begins at the remote, picturesque village of Pervolakia and ends on a lovely beach on the Libyan Sea next to Kapsa Monastery. And if you are the Indiana Jones type, you can join the search for the lost city of Erythraea, which lies still buried somewhere in the craggy terrain near Cape Goudouras. And, of course, there are countless other recommendations, adventures, and untold magic to be had in this part of Crete. What I’ve listed are the best we know of.
The original article: belongs to NEOS KOSMOS .
